Methods and Techniques of how the figs are grown

Growing

Materials

  1. Pot Size

    1. 12 gal squat pots

  2. Soil

    1. Promix HP with mycorrhizae

      Fungicide Spraying

  1. What?

    1. Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide

  2. When?

    1. Before the trees go inside for the winter when all leaves are off.

    2. Middle of dormancy (January-February)

    3. After the trees come out in the spring

    4. Sprayed more as needed (never when figs are within 2 weeks of ripening)

Watering

  1. When

  2. Each tree is watered by four .5GPH drip stakes inserted 2-3 inches into the root ball.

    1. Watering occurs 4 times a day at 8am, 11am, 2pm, and 4pm.

    2. Each watering session is for 6 minutes long which releases 125 mL of nutrient rich water

      1. 3000mL a day or .79 gal

    3. If needed another watering session is added on hot days or taken away as needed

  3. Nutrients

    1. Jack’s Nutrients, Part A, Part B and Bloom boom

  4. Watering Mechanics

    1. From water entrance to water exit

      1. Well

      2. 35 psi Pressure regulator

      3. Galcon 9001BT timer

      4. D14MZ2 Dosatron

      5. .5GPh emitters

      6. Plants

  1. Part A (Season Start- After breba Ripening)

    1. 13 oz/gal

  2. Part B (Season Sart- After breba Ripening)

    1. 8.6 oz/gal

  3. Bloom Boost ( End of Breba Ripening till end of season)

    1. 20 oz/gal

  4. My Grandfather used a 20-20-20 slow release fertilizer which also worked very well. I had switched it to inline nutrients so I have more control over the feeding program. Growing up he had always had me add an extra bloom boost nutrient in August

  5. After the trees are moved I mix a bleach solution and and feed it through the irrigation lines to kill any algae or growth within the lines before winter.

  1. Tree Dormancy

    1. Starts Thankgiving

    2. Ends Easter

      1. Climate in winter storage

        1. 38 degrees F

        2. Air circulation

        3. Darkness

        4. Fresh Air vented

  2. Pruning

    1. Vegetative pruning

      1. In January I will shape my trees to how I want them for the next year, usually leaving 4-8 branches. I use a pruning sealant to close off the cuts I make. I’ve also heard of people using old candle wax as well. I believe as long as the cut is sealed anything can work

      2. New growth pruning in July

        1. Pinch new growth tips becuase and small fruits setting past July will not ripen and the tree will waste energy on them

    2. Root Pruning

      1. Happens at the beginng of every season

        1. I take the rootball out of the pot and put into a trailer, I use a sawzall to cut 4-5 vertical cuts on the outside of the rootball, then take 1-3 inches off of the botton of the rootball.

        2. I put fresh soil on the bottom of the pot and around the sides where there are gaps

  3. Inground Trellis Trees

    1. Shaping

      1. The trees inground were started from cuttings and shaped to grow 1-2 branches paralell to the ground about 2-3 inches above the ground. Each year they get pruned back to 2 main branches, either keep the old or 2 new ones.

      2. All cuts are sealed with a pruning sealant

    2. Watering

      1. These trees only get fed water by hand a few times a year. They are not on drip irrigation

    3. Spraying

      1. These trees get sprayed after pruning before they get covered. As well as when they get uncovered in the spring

    4. Winterizing

      1. I prune back almost all the new growth, save few lateral branches for next season and tie them down paralel to the ground.

      2. Mouse poison under the cover

      3. Covering

        1. I Cover these trees using 2 layers white cloth thermal blankets, then an insulated concrete blanket. I cover as much ground as possible on either side of the tree to collect the heat from the ground throughout the winter. The concrete blanket repels water.